Stormrider Guide to surfing Central Morocco

Morocco, AFRICA

Immesouane, Patrice Touhar

Summary

+ Swell consistency	- Freqently messy line-ups
+ Lots of uncrowded spots	- Thieves ant touts
+ Long righthanders	- North winds
+ Islamic Culture

The northwesterly aspect catches all available swell but the year-round northerly wind flow can blow it out easily. Highlights include the many possibilities along the coast road from El Jadida, through Oualidia and on to Safi, where the first classic, Moroccan righthand points begin. Safi’s ‘Garden’ has been transformed from localised semi-secret spot into the government sponsored “Surfing Park Sidi Bouzide”. The main highway heads inland from Safi and rejoins the coast in Essaouira, the famous hippie town that Jimi Hendrix tried to buy in the late ‘60s. The town is now favoured by windsurfers, because this area suffers from strong cross-shore winds, but there are a few waves around and a good beginners’ beach as well. The coastline between Essaouira and Cap Rhir hides many quality reefs, points and beachbreaks, which receive more swell than further south, but also more wind. It’s a wild stretch with poor roads leading into tiny fishing villages, although development has already come to Immesouane and the freecampers now have to share with the tourists as new hotels are built. Although Tamri and Boilers are essentially part of the Taghazout scene, which is only half an hour’s drive away, they still benefit from the far better swell exposure that the central coast enjoys. When Killers is struggling to break, Boilers is often head high and Tamri will be even bigger. There’s more to find in this area for those willing to look around.

When to Go

Morocco's coastline has the straightest swell exposure in the North Atlantic. Central Morocco is a halfway house between the summery north and the wintery south. Any time from autumn to spring should provide the conditions to ride the headland-protected pointbreaks and get some exposed beach/reef action. It all depends on the strength and direction of the wind because swell size should be no problem. In winter, tradewinds from the NE will make light to moderate cross-shores at most spots. Mid-April is the start of the strong NW "Chergui" that blows out most spots until mid-September. During this period, straight N winds blow for 40% of the time, with the relative lack of swell, this is the worst period to surf in Morocco. However, if you're into wind/kitesurfing or wave sailing, check out Essaouira. Tides vary from 2-6ft (0.5-2m).

Surf Spots

Further south you will see more bona-fide righthand points including the awesome freight-train barrels of Safi. The scenic village turned modern fishing port of Immesouane sees long, mellow rights wrapping into the protected south-facing bay, while several defined peaks grace the more swell and wind exposed cathedral side. Highly consistent and often crowded mostly with longboarders. Tamri is a wind exposed rivermouth/beachbreak picking up plenty of swell on small days. On the southern tip of Cape Ghir is another small swell option called Boilers. This right sucks off a submerged ship boiler and rattles off fast, punchy, vertical walls, very close to the urchin infested rocks. The wind can be offshore on the wave as it whistles down from the mountains on the Cape, but onshore a few hundred meters out to sea! Check Draculas among the well-protected reefs and marginal beachbreaks on the drive south to Killer Point.

Statistics

dominant swell

NW -N

swell size (ft)

4-5

3-4

1-2

consistency (%)

dominant wind

N -NE

NW -NE

E -SW

NW -NE

N -NE

average force

consistency (%)

water temp (C)

wetsuit

4/3

3/2

springsuit

3/2

Travel Information

Weather
Morocco’s central surfzone is a semi-tropical venue. The winter climate is warm days, chilly nights and some rainfall. You may see 40mm of rain a month in mid-winter, making the rivermouth breaks very dirty. Summer gets extremely hot with virtually no rain. With minimum watertemps at 16°c (60°F), a 2mm short-sleeve fullsuit is ideal or a springy either side of winter.

Lodging and Food
Camping is available in Safi. Surf Camps and hotels in Immesouane. Otherwise it's local accommodation, easily found in tourist centres such as Essaouira. Check oceanvagabond.com/en/essaouira-morocco/ The food is excellent, like seafood and vegetable tagines. Alcohol is only available at tourist locations, but sweet mint tea is everywhere. A good meal shouldn’t cost more than $8

Nature and Culture
Morocco is a sensory feast full of amazing natural and cultural beauty. The artistic commune of Essaouira has been a trading base for 1000 years and its Medina is well worth a visit. Another Medina city Marrakech takes this experience to another level, a trip around the colourful souks is a must. Further afield the edge of the incomparable Sahara Desert (7h drive), best seen around the small Oasis of Tata or to the east of Goulmine. Check the snow capped mountains of the High Atlas (ski resorts are 4h drive), or the Anti Atlas around Tafraroute (5h drive).