Stormrider Guide to surfing Landes

France, EUROPE

A typical Landes sandbar, Gecko

Summary

+ Top-quality beachbreaks	- Strong rips
+ Hollow consistent waves	- No sheltered spots
+ Empty peaks to find	- Frequent onshores
+ Summer party scene	- Summer crowds

The 230km (145mi) of coastline called the Côte d’Argent is the longest uninterrupted stretch of sandy beach in Europe. Here, swells are focused on to the coast by the deep-water canyon (called the “Gouf”), which juts in towards the coast off Hossegor and are shaped by well-defined sand formations into top-quality beach breaks. Aside from the many small rivers and streams, which flow into the Bay of Biscay and shape the sand bars, there are some unusual formations called ‘baines’ - circular ‘lagoons’ of sand in the line-up, created by currents refracting and eddying off the Gouf. These bathymetric features combine to yield perfect, super-hollow beach break surf when conditions (swell, tide, and wind) are right. On the down side, there are few channels through the surf along the Côte d’Argent, so swells over 6-8ft tend to close out. Also, decent sandbars are likely to be washed away by major storms, so continual surf-checks are necessary to see which banks are working best. Add to this the fact that these breaks are heavily influenced by tide, and you have a situation where every day is a new day along the Cote d’Argent!

When to Go

Consistent, high-latitude W-NW swells can reach up to 15ft, but the straight coastline has no protection from the dominant NW winds. As a cold front approaches, winds usually clock around from the SW to WNW, blowing-out the surf for several days with wet and windy conditions. When a high pressure system sits over the land, morning offshores are followed by a moderate NW sea breeze that blows from noon until dusk. The 4.5m tide factor is crucial and as the saying goes "If the waves look good, you've probably missed it".

Surf Spots

La Salie has incredibly fast-shifting sandbars around the 800m long wharf, plus some good bodyboard shorebreak just to the north and more banks down at the blockhaus. Popular summer resort town Biscarrosse-Plage offers typical shifting bars, from high tide thumping shories to outer low tide bars that can be fast and hollow in sections. Seems to favour rights as the sand goes with the flow from N-S. Quiet Mimizan-Plage produces enough good waves on either side of the rivermouth that helps sculpt some organised sandbars, particularly from mid to high tide. The Contis-Plage lighthouse provides a birds eye view of the best sandbanks, especially those to the north, close to the bunker or rivermouth. Cap de L’Homy features more straight beachbreak that benefits from some swell angle or chopped up summer windswells. More performance oriented waves perfect for beginner/intermediates. With 12km of beachbreak to choose from, St-Girons Plage serves up something in between Hossegor barrels and average beachbreak walls. Favourite of foreign surfers and naturists with 2 massive camping sites and surf hire/schools for beginners. Moliets Plage soaks up the summer crowd on very shifty sandbanks that often shut down. High tide is usually no good. The Huchet River mouth from Leon Lake can shape some nice lower tide sandbars. Typical Landes plage, Messanges displays all moods of wave from onshore crumbly mess to morning A-frame barrels, depending on the luck of the sandbars. High tide will often kill it when small. North side of the lake entrance at Vieux Boucau has fast, hollow peaks on higher tides, but heavy longshore rips at headhigh plus. Port d’Albret on the south side leads into the Soustons stretch and has good shape for kilometers. Handles more size than the breaks to the north. Casernes campsite-fed beach access marks the northern limit of the Seignosse beaches. When the sand lines up, it can produce those speedy, lip smacking walls across a handful of mid tide sandbars. Despite the 500m walk from the car park and campground, it is often just as crowded as everywhere else. Capbreton Pointe is actually just another stretch of the dead straight beach, but favourable sand formation can give the wave nice shape. Can be some bad vibes in the water and regular vehicle break-ins. With a moderate NW swell and offshores, heavy peaks, close to shore, provide tube time for the local Labenne-Ocean crew. Tarnos Plage is very similar to Labenne and Ondres, with weak low tide rides in small swell, before awakening in overhead to double-overhead W-NW swell and serving up chunky, powerful barrels. The extensive, curved jetty at Boucau helps shape the sandbanks and gives a little protection from S winds, but not from the pollution flowing out from the heavily industrialised Adour. Currents can be strong, but necessary to get out at size and only experienced surfers will handle the demanding, unfriendly line-up.

Statistics

dominant swell

W -SW

swell size (ft)

7-8

6-7

consistency (%)

dominant wind

SW -NW

W -NE

W -N

W -NW

SW -NW

average force

consistency (%)

water temp (C)

wetsuit

4/3

3/2

springsuit

3/2

Travel Information

Weather
The Pyrenees mountains greatly influence the southern Landes weather bringing regular annual rainfall. Winters can be damp and cool, until stable weather arrives from March to October. March-April can have occasional warm spells, but spring is usually windy with squalls, rain and choppy swells. May and June are good months despite the cooler water. Summers can get some hot days before the sea breeze cuts in. Autumn weather can be perfect with cool mornings, warm daytime temps and comfortable water temps. Take a 4/3 fullsuit for winter, a 3/2 for mid-season, and a shorty or boardies for the warmer days that can reach 24ºC (75ºF).

Lodging and Food
Along the Landes coast holiday rentals, VVF’s and campgrounds are the go. Campervans will be fined for free-camping beach car parks during summer. Try cheaper Aire de Camping municipal sites. A typical restaurant bill is $20, not including wine. Foie gras along with duck dishes are regional favourites.

Nature and Culture
The Côte d’Argent is an endless beach skirted by sand dunes and thick forests, so it’s easy to find relative wilderness as an antidote to the busy towns. The Dune Du Pyla is the largest sand dune in Europe, worth the walk for the view over the Bassin d’Arcachon. Bordeaux vineyards are a tasty, flat-day idea. At the beach, most women are topless and full nudity is common along many stretches of the coast.