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Blue Tomato

Stormrider Guide to surfing Northern Maluku

Indonesia, EAST ASIA


Serenade, John Callahan/Tropicalpix

Summary

+ Regular N monsoon swell - Short surf season
+ Quality, mid-sized waves - Long distances between spots
+ Calm winds, small tides - Few organised boat trips
+ Newly opened surf area - Volcanic activity and earthquakes

The original Spice Islands, the Malukus (Moluccas or Molluques) are the only Indonesian island chain in the Pacific. Despite waves as good as the Philippines, these islands remain largely ignored by travelling surfers. Occasional boat forays into the region have revealed an outstanding variety of breaks, most of which go unsurfed. A small number of feral surfers make the long trek through the jungles around Christmas time, to stay in remote villages and surf the better-known spots.

When to Go

Although the NW Pacific typhoon season (Sept-Oct) must have some epic days, itÕs safer to hit these islands at the heart of the winter NE monsoon season (Nov-March) for consistent 3-6ft wind-driven waves, with bigger days at exposed spots. Winds at this equatorial ÒdoldrumsÓ latitude are light and variable. Glassy days are the norm, but onshore ENE winds do occur, shifting NNW if the sun is shining. Tidal range varies up to 1m, and affects almost all the known spots. Tides are difficult to gauge and accurate information is hard to find Ð ask the local fishermen.

Surf Spots

Close to the bigger airport and optional boat charter departure point of Ternate, the reliable rights of Sama Sama break beneath the steep headland cliffs, peeling for about two or three turns. Changes constantly through the tide. Further north, Halmahera hides a bunch of great waves including the incredibly long, cruising walls of Paniki Point that bend through 130¼ bringing you almost back to the peak. Offshore on Loloda Utara islands the main attractions are on Salandageke Island. Sidewalk breaks down a natural rock spit, is ideally exposed to the NNE and can be an angry fast shut-down tube or a perfect, long, mellow righthander, ideal for longboarding when small. Racing Lefts across the channel are long and sectiony. Coconut Swing is a savage left break, but few waves are rideable. On the north coast of Halmahera Double Dome is ridden by local surfers on wooden planks. Lefts break down the angled reef into the town, offshore in westerlies. Pulau Rau has two setups dubbed Nachos, a fun high tide peak/left and Tacos, a super-fast left fringing reef over super-sharp coral. Tanjung Padang is a great set-up, with long, fast rights over the reef, flanked by a deep-water channel. Nearby Short Ledge is a thick high tide right barrel on the east side of a deep bay with further possibilities. Sopi, the northernmost bay on Morotai, is an obvious swell magnet. 40mins walk from the village where a few surfers hang out Serenade (named after one of the first boat trips to the area) is a stunning left. A ledgy take-off into an angular barrel section (which regularly slams shut) leads onto smooth, variable speed walls mixed with clean tapered shoulders. This easier wide section peaks up and runs off down the reef, leaving plenty of room for lip-tapping and roundhouses. Despite working on all tides, the two sections are distinctly separate on smaller swells and the fairly benign reef can get sketchy on the inside section close to the jungle shoreline. Village Reform is a rapid right that is shallow at low and fun, but sectiony at high. Outside Indo Jiwa is an epic right with fast outside sections and hollow walls, but needs plenty of size or N in the swell and higher tides. The east coasts of Morotai and Halmahera hide a multitude of breaks but do catch the E winds. Pulau Kecil, an island off the town of Berebere, has a long, wrapping righthander and a left. The Tobelo Islands pick up NE-E swell on a number of different reefs. Lefts off Kokara hit the same channel as the rights of Tagalaya while the reliable righthanders at Green Pools on Tupu Tupu, pick up the most swell at lower tides. Miti has the best left spinning over coral shelf and a short right further up the straight reef when small.

Statistics

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
dominant swell N -NE N -NE NE -E NE -E NE -E N -NE
swell size (ft) 4-5 2-3 0-1 1-2 2-3 4
consistency (%) 90 60 10 20 40 80
dominant wind N -NE N -NE S -SW S -SW S -SW NW -NE
average force F3 F3 F2-F3 F3 F3 F2-F3
consistency (%) 65 54 40 66 49 48
water temp (C) 28 28 29 28 28 29
wetsuit boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts

Travel Information

Weather
With a thousand odd islands, the climate in Maluku is heavily influenced by the monsoon trends, elevation, proximity to volcanoes, and coastal exposure. The weather varies from one island to another. However, humidity is the rule with over 2.5m (100in) of rain a year. Usually, north of the Equator, Nov-March NE monsoon clears up the skies while April-Oct SW monsoon brings downpours. Wind squalls are frequent and thunderstorm activity is amongst the highest on earth. Transition months like October or April are characterised by heavy rainfall as well. Fortunately, the surf season is somewhat clearer. Daytime temperature variation is small; expect it to be hot and humid year-round. Water is amongst the warmest on earth, at 29°C (84ºF).

Lodging and Food
In Manado, stay in town for $30-110/d, at hotels catering for divers. Most hotels are 30-45min from Manado, but the best resorts are on the small Siladen Island in Bunaken Marine Park. There are cheap hotels ($5-10) in Ternate, Daruba or Tobelo. Food is fresh and cheap, boat menus have lots of fresh fish (yellow fin tuna). Expect to pay $3 for a meal in town.

Nature and Culture
There is not much in Maluku except thick jungle and rusted WW2 sunken ships and planes to dive on. ThereÕs superb snorkelling on untouched reefs. The waterfall shower at Paniki Point is a gem.