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Stormrider Guide to surfing North Carolina - Outer Banks South

The South, USA, NORTH AMERICA


Cape Hatteras, Doug Waters

Summary

+ Wide swell window - Windy conditions
+ Powerful beachbreaks - Beachbreaks only
+ Uncrowded areas - Cold winters
+ Wild scenic area - Costly accommodation

The Outer Banks are a bow shaped string of barrier islands sitting in offshore isolation from the North Carolina coast. These low-lying strips of sand appeared less than a 1000 years ago, a result of the merger of the cold Labrador Current from the north and the warm Gulf Stream from the south. This fusion has produced miles of shifting beachbreaks on these migrating islands whose width never exceeds 3 miles (5km). The constant movement of both the islands and the offshore sandbanks of the Diamond Shoals, has earned the Outer Banks a reputation as “The Graveyard of the Atlantic” with more than 2000 ships sunk in these waters since 1526. The Outer Banks are well exposed to all types of East Coast swell, and the dozens of piers provide some protection from wind and cross-shore drift. When it’s happening, there are full on, beachbreak barrels to be had, which are not short of power.

When to Go

Although hurricanes usually provide the best days, NE swells travel full speed to shore and offer the best consistency producing 2-12ft (0.5-4m) waves from September to May. Winters are very consistent but once the water temp gets below 53°F (12°c), messy beach break conditions become tough. Classic conditions come from late summer-early fall hurricanes producing perfect lines of 4-10ft (1-3m) swell. The open beachbreaks don’t hold too much size but around the piers, triple overhead is a possibility. The Outer Banks are often swept by gusty winds but the islands’ curve means it’s always possible to get offshore apart from a straight E wind. Dominant is NE in winter plus some cold offshore westerlies between storms and summer wind blows SW with NE seabreezes. Tidal range rarely exceeds 6ft (2m), but high tide in a small swell will fat things out.

Surf Spots



Statistics

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
dominant swell N -NE N -NE NE -SE E -S NE -SE N -E
swell size (ft) 5-6 4-5 3 2-3 4-5 5-6
consistency (%) 70 70 60 40 70 80
dominant wind NW -NE SW -NE SW -NE SW -NE N -E W -N
average force F4 F4 F4 F4 F4 F4
consistency (%) 66 54 51 55 52 64
water temp (C) 9 11 19 25 20 14
wetsuit 5/4 4/3 3/2 boardshorts springsuit 4/3

Travel Information

Weather
The conflicting temperatures of the Labrador Current and the Gulf Stream can bring very unstable weather. Winters are cold and stormy while summers are wet and warm. Mid-seasons can be anything in between. Be prepared with a full range of clothing and stay alert whenever a huge storm comes by or when hurricanes get close. Storms can wash right over the lowest parts of the islands, cutting road access when they breach the sand dune defences that are built up on the Atlantic side of Highway 12. Weather changes are radical and statistics show some of the greatest contrasts seen in the atlas, especially water temps, which get as low as 41ºf (5ºc). From boardshorts in the late summer, to 5/4/3, boots and hood in the winter, with everything in-between.

Lodging and Food
Buxton is central but not right on the surf like Avon or Rodanthe. Motels/Hotels are pricey (Salvo Inn: $40-$60; Surf Motel: $50-$90), B&B ($80-$100) but campgrounds are cheap (Ocean Waves: $15-$20) with more discounts off-season. Expect to pay $10 for a fast-food meal.

Nature and Culture
Great fishing potential! Climb the 248-step lighthouse to check the sandbanks. Visit the Wright Brothers Museum at Kitty Hawk, the birthplace of modern aviation. Bars and nightclubs get very lively in summer, but winter is ghostly quiet in the small towns full of empty holiday accommodation.