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Stormrider Guide to surfing Mauritius

Mauritius, INDIAN OCEAN


Mauritius surf at Tamarin Bay, Rob Gilley

Summary

+ Tamarin's flawless left - Crowds
+ Quality reefbreaks - Tamarin Bay inconsistency
+ Exotic culture - Lack of sheltered waves
+ Beautiful scenery - Expensive flights

Mauritius surf has focused on Tamarin Bay, a perfect, almond-eyed left that became a symbol of escapism in the heart of surfers thanks to the 1974 surf film, “Forgotten Island of Santosha”.

The epic 8-10ft swell featured in the film, captured the attention of the surfing world, but it turned out to be inconsistent, leaving many travelling surfers disappointed. Localism flared in the ‘90s, with incidents of violence from the now notorious White Shorts enforcers, but the aggression has thankfully calmed down. When it fires, Tamarin is a true slice of surfing paradise, plus there are a handful of quality reef passes on the exposed Morne Peninsula that are way more reliable and provide a great diversion on what is often referred to as the “Honeymoon Island”.


When to Go

During the Southern Hemisphere winter (May-Oct) there are frequent SW swells varying in size from 2-20ft. Although these SW swells can appear year-round, the summer season is characterised by NE tropical storms, but with only about 10 depressions in six months, it’s hardly consistent. Of these, 1-2 will be strong cyclones that can be dangerous and destructive. Winter SE-S trades blow constantly and with a greater strength and frequency from July-Sept. Summer winds veer more NE-E, which can also bring 2-6ft onshore windswell to the windward coast and side/offshore conditions on the surf-blessed SW corner. Tides are only significant at shallower spots.

Surf Spots

On the NE coast of Mauritius is the town of Grand Gaube; the barrier reef offshore has a couple of righthanders during the off-season, notably the right in front of Ile Bernache, fun and juicy when it breaks, which isn’t very often. There is a kitesurfing/surf school nearby. Near Grand Baie is the island’s second-best left, called “Tagore” by some, rivalling Tamarin when it’s on, with localism and a nasty reef. Just south is the Mont Choisy beach area, where there are some shapely reefs offshore (two rights and two lefts), but require a long paddle or hiring a boat from shore. On the NW coast at Trou aux Biches there is a fairly gutless reef wave that is usually quite small, so good for novices. At Balaclava there is a pass in front of the Oberoi Hotel that has a fun left and a right when small and clean. At the south end of the bay (Baie de l’Arsenal) Le Goulet is a good but rare left that only breaks on the biggest of SW swells, having to wrap nearly 180°. At Baie de la Petite Riviére, there is a NW-facing pass in front of La Plantation d’Albion Club Med that has a left and a right, but both need a big winter swell or summer conditions to break. When the swell is small and clean, sometimes there are a few rideable spots on the barrier reef offshore of Flic en Flac. Black Rocks is a fast, powerful, folding wall that needs higher tides and more NE than SE wind to hold up the sections. It’s situated across the deep channel from the famous reef at ✪Tamarin Bay, which will only start breaking when a moderate to big SW swell has enough power and period to wrap through 90º and hit the perfect curve of the NW-facing coral reef and lots of tube time is logged by the mix of locals and lucky holidaymakers. This long, perfectly-formed, barrelling left becomes ultra-shallow at low tide, so higher tides are safer. Tuck-ins and speed slashes are the order of the day so lesser surfers should stick to the inside reform or beachbreak. The blind aggression has gone, but behave and avoid eye-contact with the humourless crowds, foot-contact with the legion of urchins, face-contact with the coral crusted limestone and any contact with the ever-present sharks. Tamarin has been forgotten to an extent, since Indonesian consistency and price have deflected the hordes, but it is still a beauty to behold. Just down the coast, La Preneuse is a barrelling left along a corner of the barrier reef offshore of the Martello Tower museum. Yet another perfect, but inconsistent left exists at the entrance to Baie de la Petite Riviére Noire that requires a boat ride. Moving down to the consistent Le Morne Peninsula, there is Passe de L’Ambulante, a decent high tide left and right (the right is better) directly in front of Les Pavillons Hotel; it’s almost 1km offshore so find a boat. The small pass opposite the southern tip of the Le Morne Peninsula and directly under the shadow of the towering granite Morne Brabant is called One Eyes. It’s probably the most consistent and crowded wave on the island, especially on weekends, where shapely lefts spin down a straight reef that gets quite heavy and hollow when overhead. Low tide makes the line-up and the 20min lagoon paddle sketchy. When the swell is small and clean or the wind is NE, Morne Rights can be ridden out on the north side of Passe de la Prairie. Across the channel is the Manawa left and both are very consistent, long and hollow, but you need slack wind, incoming tide, and a boat to reach it. Horrendous out-going currents on the dropping tide. At Baie du Cap, Macondé is a short hollow left that can handle any size, but requires some N or E in the wind and a 10-minute paddle. All the spots further east only work in the morning or with summer NE winds. Facing the cemetery, Graveyards is another left that’s rarely good, but usually rideable over the scary reef. Requires a long paddle-out, and needs N wind. One of the most consistent summer spots on the S coast is Îlot Sancho, which gets weird rights and lefts on the edge of the reef in the little cove. The right in Souillac breaks on a small swell and a N wind on the last bit of fringing reef before the coast gets cliffy. On huge south swells there is a psycho death righthand slab at Gris Gris—it would be a prime tow spot if jet skis were legal on Mauritius! Down at Blue Bay, there is a very good left behind Île des Deux Cocos, but it is always blown out during winter, hard to access and creates strong currents. The eastern reef of Mauritius has dozens of small passes and possible surf spots, but they are almost always flat and/or blown out.

Statistics

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
dominant swell N -E S -SW S -SW S -SW S -SW N -E
swell size (ft) 4 5 6 6-7 5-6 4
consistency (%) 50 70 80 80 70 50
dominant wind NE -SE E -SE E -SE E -SE E -SE NE -SE
average force F4 F4 F4 F4 F4 F3-F4
consistency (%) 82 64 61 76 69 77
water temp (C) 27 26 24 22 23 25
wetsuit boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts springsuit springsuit boardshorts

Travel Information

Weather
Mauritius differs from the classic monsoon pattern, and its year-round moderate rain generally falls at the end of the day. It’s usually hotter and wetter, but with less cyclone risk during the summer (Dec-April). Winter begins in May, but temperatures remain warm enough for most visitors, and this period is considered the most pleasant time. The E coast is drier than the W coast. The water can get a little chilly in winter, requiring a springsuit as opposed to the usual boardies.

Lodging and Food
Surf Camp Mauritius offer accommodation and car packages fr $300/w, plus lessons and boat transport. At Chez Jacques, doubles start at $50/night. A double in Tamarin Hotel starts at $145/night half board. Le Morne has several luxury resorts facing the surf (Le Paradis, Dinarobin, Indian Resort, Les Pavillons); all expensive. Package deals are your best bet. Street food is good and spicy with Creole, French and Indian flavours on offer from local restaurants ($15/meal) or overpriced fusion food from the resorts.

Nature and Culture
Unlike Reunion, Mauritius is hilly rather than mountainous, and only the Trou aux Cerfs crater testifies to the ancient volcanic activity. The beaches are some of the most beautiful in the world. Port-Louis spice markets, Pamplemousse Gardens, and Moka Town are all worth a visit. Shellorama Museum next to Tamarin is interesting.

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