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Stormrider Guide to surfing Rarotonga

Cook Islands, PACIFIC OCEAN


, Micheal Kew

Summary

+ Uncrowded reef passes - Limited reef pass set-ups
+ North and south swells - Shallow high tide reefs
+ Easy paddles from shore - No beginner spots
+ Outer island potential - Expensive local costs

The capital Rarotonga is volcanic with a rugged, eroded centre of peaks and ridges, surrounded by flat lowlands about 1 km wide. Since Rarotonga is the youngest island, it is physically unlike its other volcanic neighbours where erosion and periodic submersions have reduced mountains to gentle hills. Compared with other atolls, the lagoon surrounding Rarotonga is quite small, covering only 8km2 (5mi2) and is relatively shallow. The fringing reef defines the lagoon, which is broad and sandy to the south, and narrow and rocky on the north and east. Most of the reef passes are too narrow, preventing waves from wrapping properly, and explains why there is only a handful of surf spots. The waves break over shallow reef, so it’s usually safest to surf at high tide and a decent-size swell will also help the waves to break in deeper water. All the reefbreaks are easily accessible by paddling out one of the passages or directly over the reef. Devoting a few weeks here should ensure some decent and definitely uncrowded waves.

When to Go

South Pacific SE-SW swells ranging from 3-15ft arrive regularly between March and November and can also pop up in mid summer, when the focus has shifted to huge North Pacific NW swells. The prevailing trades oscillate between ENE in Jan to ESE in July, which is also the windiest month with speeds exceeding 20-40kmh. Tidal range never goes over 1m, but it really matters!

Surf Spots

On the leeward side, the best spot is undoubtedly Black Rock (aka Socials/Golf Course) next to the airport. ItÕs not a pass, more a curve in the reef that will bend prevailing swell into some slabby shacks on the rights. The lefts get really good too, barreling fast from a wedging take-off, but beware the coral heads and pitching lips. Plus points are it is really consistent because of its wide swell window, constant offshores, mid to high tide range and easy access. Minuses include short rides, close-outs, getting pitched, sharks and scrabbling over the reef on a dropping tide. This wave exudes true Polynesian power and although it is uncrowded, negotiating its imperfections requires skill and guts. Respect the local bodyboard crew. ÒThe BoilerÓ of the Maitai Wreck (1916) sticks up off the Avarua Harbour reef and creates hollow lefts on major NW swells. Easier lefts peel down the harbour entrance on the inside, but NE winds are dead onshore. For righthanders, head to the reef off Club Raro, which regularly produces some good waves in smaller N swells. ItÕs an ill-defined line-up and thereÕs a good chance of taking a few on the head crossing the straight reef line. ThereÕs not much to recommend the east coast when the trades are shredding the waves to pieces, but on those rare, slack wind days, little scallops in the reef like Norrie Park (Matavera Point) can hold a decent right at high tide. Despite being on the windward side, one of the most surfed spots is Avana, breaking off the tip of Motutapu. The break is quite short and requires patience in selecting waves. The surf is neither that reliable nor challenging, even though it breaks over shallow reef, making it a bit too dangerous for beginners. On moderate SW swells and summer NE winds, the thick, ferocious rights off the Avaavaroa Passage provide pits for determined tube riders. Direction, size and period will be crucial to prevent the skinny channel closing-out and a dropping tide will see the currents race, so paddle in over the reef, well before mid tide approaches. Rutaki Passage favours the left side of another, thin 50m wide channel through the coral shelf. SE-S swell will help with the angle to the channel, but any wind lacking north will kill it. ThereÕs also a right on the other side when thereÕs more W in the swell. Inconsistent, rarely crowded and not for intermediates. Just to the east, check anorexic Papua Passage on small, clean, organised swells.

Statistics

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
dominant swell NW -N S -SW SE -SW SE -SW S -SW NW -N
swell size (ft) 4-5 5 6-7 7 5-6 4-5
consistency (%) 40 50 60 60 50 40
dominant wind NE -SE E -SE E -SE E -SE E -SE E -SE
average force F4 F4 F4 F4 F4 F4
consistency (%) 71 54 58 49 60 66
water temp (C) 26 26 25 23 23 25
wetsuit boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts springsuit springsuit boardshorts

Travel Information

Weather
The surfing season, May-Sept, has the ÔcoolerÕ months, with average daily temps around 25¡C (77¡F), down to 19¡C (66¡F) at night. The summer rainy season, Dec-April, can be hot and humid 29¡C (84¡F) by day with bright sunny mornings and late afternoon downpours. Bring a shorty for windy winter days when water gets down around 22-23¡C (72-74¡F).

Lodging and Food
Prices are high for the South Pacific. Muri Beach Resort (from $165/n/dbl), Avana Waterfront apartments (fr $330/n sleeps 4). Avarua has the Paradise Inn from $85/n/single. Tiare Village is a cheap $21/n single, near the airport. Expect $15-20 for a meal.

Nature and Culture
Rarotonga is lush and peaceful. Go to Saturday morningÕs Punanga-nui Market. Fishing is world-class! Visit the other Cook islands who have joined the massive Pacific Oceanscape project along with 15 island nations to create the largest protected area network on the planet!

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