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Stormrider Guide to surfing Eleuthera and Great Abaco

Bahamas, CENTRAL AMERICA & CARIBBEAN


Indicas, Alex Williams

Summary

+ Good varied reefbreaks - Flat summers
+ Low crowd pressure - Unreliable hurricane swells
+ Incredibly clear water - Unpredictable winds
+ Close to Florida - Close to Florida

Shaped like a shallow satellite dish, expectantly listening for the next broadcast of North Atlantic waves, the Bahamas occupy an enviable position facing the longest fetch to the NE. During the 70s, Puerto Rican surfers expanded their horizons and the Bahamas became a hot surfing destination but during the 80s its popularity began to fade as places such as Costa Rica became known for being cheaper and more consistent. All the eastern “out islands” have good surfing potential but only Abaco and Eleuthera receive traveling surfers on a regular basis from Florida and the US East Coast, plundering the offshore cays and reefs at Indica’s, Garbanzo and Surfer’s Beach, where a second generation of local riders are now ripping.

When to Go

Between October and April, North Atlantic lows and fronts deliver numerous NE swells from 3-10ft. Summer is flat most of the time before August to October brings the possibility of small but clean hurricane swells between days of SE windchop. Moderate onshore easterlies blow more from the NE (Oct-April) then SE (May-Sept). Offshores arrive as soon as a cold front leaves the US East Coast, but winds remain unpredictable. Tidal range (1.5m) affects the shallower spots and mid tides are best.

Surf Spots

Willawahs is on the main beach of Guana Cay, where a sandy, flat reef shapes small swell peaks for all abilities. Elbow Cay seems to hold all the popular spots. HopetownÕs ÒDown AlongÓ road runs along the water, leading to Four Rocks, a rare beachbreak in a sea of coral reefs. Indicas may well be the best barrel in the Bahamas, forming stand-up tubes over a shallow, live coral reef. ItÕs a great left up to 6ft, before turning into the areaÕs proving grounds, holding up to double overhead. Rush Reef is a quality wave on a larger swell as the peaks break way offshore, in deep water. The rights are longer, plus there are nearby options on the inside at Hamburger and the fun Pools peaks in front of the Abaco Inn. Mid to high tide essential and the lefts are usually the go in NE swells. Garbanzo is easy and forgiving when small, as consistent, long lefts and some rights break along the deeper reef, with enticing walls and ramps. Gets serious at size, which it handles and is the locals go to spot, so expect company. There are more breaks on the way to Tilloo Cut that receives consistent surf on the remote, southern tip of the cay, which is boat access only. Long and thin, Eleuthera is under 2km wide for 160km (100mi) of shoreline with pink and white beaches, sheltered coves and dramatic cliffs. The deep water, bowling A-frame on the west side of Egg Island takes a good N swell to work, but is usually clean since the trades will blow offshore there. Ride a boat from Spanish Wells to check it out. Harbour Island lefts run down the reef nicely in E swells and across the deep channel, Whale Point Cut will have a righthand point setup in big N swell and slack or S winds. Both need dropping tides. Holiday Beach is EleutheraÕs most radical wave. Steep and hollow, the left is usually the wave of choice. Overhead NE swells and mid-tide are optimal conditions. Gregory TownÕs SurferÕs Beach draws long lefts from any swell and some steep rights appear once in a while. ItÕs a fast wave with an intense inside section breaking over a sand bottom. Hatchet Bay cuts a long, fat, workable left known as Ledges on the northern side and The Dump works best on low to mid tide and an E to SE swell off the southern point. Rainbow Bay area catches lots of swell but will be only heavy beachbreak unless itÕs big enough for Hidden BeachÕs point to reveal itself. On an E to SE wind, inside James Point will be offshore and the place to be for clean, hollow and very shallow rights in a N swell. The main headland to the east is an exposed deep-water reef that handles big rights wrapping into the bay. Big sea-life, mega urchins and impossible reef access mean itÕs a super-long paddle. North Palmetto Point holds powerful peaks a long way off the beach at Diamond Cay. Rock Sound can occasionally fire on NE-E swells, with perfect lefts angling down sharp reef near the airport.

Statistics

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
dominant swell N -E NE -E NE -SE E -SE NE -E N -E
swell size (ft) 4-5 4 2-3 1-2 3 4
consistency (%) 80 60 40 20 50 60
dominant wind E -SE E -SE E -SW E -SW NE -SE NE -E
average force F4-F5 F4 F3-F4 F3 F4 F4
consistency (%) 57 49 57 74 49 55
water temp (C) 22 23 25 27 26 24
wetsuit springsuit springsuit boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts boardshorts

Travel Information

Weather
The winter temperatures are commonly 5¡C (9¼F) warmer than Florida and the summer highs are generally lower, moderated by the surrounding waters. Rainfall is low during the winter surf season but heavy squalls or thundershowers occur during the hurricane months of June through October. Water temps stay well above 21¼C (70¼F) year-round, but a neoprene vest/shortie will protect against winter windchill.

Lodging and Food
Expensive destination, winter is peak tourism season. On Elbow Cay, the Abaco Inn is the place to be ($125/dbl). Bahamas Out-Island Adventures offers guided camping surfaris on Eleuthera. Other lodging options include The Cove Eleuthera in Gregory Town ($245/dbl). Surfers Haven Guesthouse from $40/n/dbl camping.

Nature and Culture
Fishing, snorkelling and diving are great, live coral, tropical fish and dolphins are abundant. The Abacos are known as the ÔSailing Capital of the WorldÕ. In Hopetown, take photos from the lighthouse.